A long (12h) and boring flight from Madrid to Lima. My seat neighbour was a Peruvian, born in Arequipa, lives in Milan and she was friendly.
The children making noise and run down the aisle was a disgrace. Nobody slept and all passengers shared a dour air to the Papas.
The trip from the airport to the hotel was in Green Taxi. 40-50 soles that pay security. At the hotel, in Lima, the first few hours of sleep, were another torment. People talking in the hallway and a couple had an angry and loud conversation at night.
Ibis has a good breakfast. Plenty of fruit and juice, good to recover energy.
The starting point to an overview of the city was a city tour. Friday, the museums were closed but the tour pays off the price - 90 soles.
The morning fog it was a mistake. After all, it was immense heat. It seems that in Lima rains very little and there aren't leans roof.
Lima was built in a desert area, groundwater from the rivers is abundant. The fog and aquifers allow lush vegetation in several parts of the city. The moisture comes from the sea and often the weather is reminiscent of Cape Town. We find the four seasons in a only day.
Passengers collected in the hotels enter to the main bus in Huaca Pucllana, still in the Miraflores district. From the road is possible to have an overview of what remains of adobe construction that served for ritual and administrative center.
The highlight was the historic center classified as World Heritage by UNESCO, in particular Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor.
Many people with branches and purple and Sunday clothes were walking on square and filled the cathedral of Lima. It was a holy day, celebrating the Señor de los Milagros with people from various regions of Peru. Colonization left them very devout. National televisions occupied hours (even in the prime-time) with the festivities of Holy Week and in the center of Lima were thousands of persons. Security guards on Plaza de Armas, medical support, sales branches and meeting points for lost children . Kids on parent's lap, others with balloons and old people with typical garments gave a great color to the square which, itself, It has a wide variety of flowers.
The following passage was the Convent of St. Francis, a religious architectural complex and has the mark of a Portuguese. Vasconcelos Constantine guided the reconstruction after an earthquake in 17th century. The square had lot of people, further amusement for the children. An authentic circus. Photographers recorded for posterity the family photo, llamas, balloons, breads, pastries, liqueurs, craftsmen ... a huge concentration of small business. Some locals had rural roots and was curious the mix with tourists. But not with the cameras. Peruvian ladies hide from objective.
We took the bus again on a wide street that has in horizon the San Cristóbal hill. Today is also a place of pilgrimage.Faithful climb to the top, were is a cross that is 20 meters high and is one of the symbols of Christianity in old town.
In return I went out in Larcomar. A shopping center, very close the Ibis hotel. There are many outdoor cafes, restaurants and clothing stores of Western brands. It is one of the points of obligatory passage in Miraflores. It has a magnificent view of the Pacific. Just above the ravines. The view is to the cold water beach and rocky sand. To one side, hundreds of surfers are the center of our view.
To other side, a huge rock covers the horizon where a luminous cross fills the sea at night. Tourists and locals converge here in a calm and secure environment.
I had lunch here. Octopus with rice and golden potatoes. I returned in the evening for the sunset. This time the stop was on a terrace suspended in the ravines to savor a cheesecake.
The middle of the afternoon was spent wandering around Miraflores. It is an island in Lima. In several point of view, as socially, economically, security and architecture.
Miraflores is near the cliffs, on the seafront and has several parks. What is more relevant for a tourist: security, it's safe.. video surveillance, there is police everywhere. National police, transit, tourism and private police near the shops, banks, parks ...
This part of the metropolis of Lima is frequented by the richest segment of Peruvian society. Residential and services. There is a street of private schools and in one of them the allowance is one thousand dollars.
Miraflores is full of hotels, restaurants, craft shops, clothing sales, telecommunications and banks.
It appears to be safe. That's where live more wealthy class, there are tourists, shops and banks.
The streets were very busy. Tourists from everywhere. Backpackers and older people. They had a look to the shops and went to Kennedy Park at evening. To saw the craft stalls.
The main streets had bikeway, the sidewalks had flowers (for some reason is called Miraflores) and sellers with small tents that had a jacket with a designation. The same goes for several men and women who were near banks. They had make foreign exchange and they had blue jackets where was written some currencies as well reference to the municipality of Miraflores.
The Kennedy park is not very big. It's a pleasant place, with painters, lovers, a pianist, craftsmen ... and many cats with a bank for adoption. During the day the fascination of the Park were the cats. Immense. Join up under the trees, play and do not bother with tourists.
Ibis is between Larcomar and Kennedy Park. It is very well situated and the 55 euros room rate pays off. At the door there was a taxi service to airport for 45 soles.
The Virgem Milagrosa church was celebrating the Holy Week also. A coffee, a cigarette ended the day.
Wake up and walk through Miraflores. Early because it was the start to Cusco.
Lunch was in Chef Cafe where, on the terrace, they have straps on the tables and chairs to hold personal property. Bags, wallets, bags ...
Many locals love a conversation in these cafes, more old people. They greet each other and who are walking make a brief rest for a conversation also... It seems that Lima lived other times, most delightful.
The trip to the airport was taken on malecon. When we were in downtown traffic is a mess and very poor neighborhoods.
The flight to Cusco was in Lan.
It was a abrupt landing on the most famous city in Peruvian Andes. I soon realized the effect of altitude, 3400 meters above the sea level. Lima is more or less 100 meters. Legs tingling, slight change of breath. Tiredness. Smoking worsens. A little "sluggish". In The Royal Inca II hotel a woman said to another, "just controll breathing"
The city was poor, with brick neighborhoods, dirty streets, chaotic traffic. The taxi driver, from airport to the hotel, changed the way to escape traffic and went by the central market. Hundreds of outlets (with products for rural areas) fill the sidewalks. Small shops, as people. Women with hat, several skirts, distinctive nose and long braids. In the path we went through a narrow street next to the market. Sold meats. Rare scenes ...
In the evening, a stroll through the historic center. Is part of the UNESCO heritage list. Many tourists wander on streets. Some alone, others in a group.
It was cold but not so much for caps and heavy winter coats as the tourists used.
In Cathedral were celebrating a Mass.
A woman, very young, with a child were on top of the stairs. She had a very sweet, soft voice. She was speaking with a man, maybe tourist.
The cathedral was full of faithful and they participated in another ritual of Holy Week.
The Cathedral was fantastic.
The square in front of the cathedral was full. Many artisans and tourists. Without tourism to Machu Picchi, Cusco would be a very poor city. Like many other urban centers in Peru (and Bolivia) the old town is on valley and while increase altitude, quality of life is lower. There were small "islands" occupied by wealthier classes but, in general terms, cities had a very social stratified territory. Cusco is the same.
The night hides this difference and in city center there is a lights skyline that up the hills.
The night wasn’t good. I was not the only one. The soroche was the nightmare of many new guests arrived to Cusco.
I took the famous sorojchi pills, a Peruvian drug I had bought in Lima to prevent altitude sickness. Scant. Coca tea did not help much, also.
Before 6h am I wake up because Machu Picchu was waiting for me!
But there was no way to hit. The day (Easter Sunday) started really bad. No hot water for the shower. At the end of the day, the receptionist explained that I had to wait a few minutes.
Breakfast had to be running. More coca tea.
David, the taxi driver, took me to Peru Rail station. Part of the train link to Machu Picchu was in works and the trip had to be on bus. The only access by train to Machu Picchu is by Peru Rail. You must buy the ticket in advance because is often sold out.
The purchase can be made online and at various points of sale in Peru. Attention: before you buy the train ticket you must had to combine with the Machu Picchu park entrance, which has limited access, also.
The ticket purchase to Machu Picchu can be made in advance at the Government website. But, it has problems with the payment system. Alternative (successfully, without any problem, the same price and with reliable process) was made online, in this site for ticket purchase. After a e.mail contact I learned that this site has a physical connection with a Peruvian travel agency. What gave me more confidence.
Another possibility to travel in the Sacred Valley is by Inca Rail. But you must first get to the area of Machu Picchu because the journey is only between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu.
The Peru Rail staff is very friendly. The company's "target" is tourists, works for over a decade and has shareholders of Orient Express.
The bus trip began with a sharp rise on hills surrounding Cusco. Further from the city center, the poverty is biger. Waste, houses to finish, stalls, factories.... A woman urine to a potty beside the road. Many dogs share the territory and trash. Despite these signs, the sunrise in the morning is beautiful, on top of the mountain. By far, fog was covering the valley where Cusco awake. Across the mountain is the green of the fields and the countryside.
Transfer by bus took about two hours. The change is made near a ravine. A steep mountain, which is widely used for mountaineering. Overhead are "nailed" on the escarpment three "ships" fiber serving as shelters when storms arise.
The train ride was in Expedition. Hiram Bingam is the name of the train. The reference is to the American explorer who in the early twentieth century, with the help of local, discovered Machu Picchu. The road is fantastic. A work of engineering which breaks the Andean canyons. Dense jungle, huge cliffs, narrow the carriages to pass through a ravine, near of small agricultural grazes with animals ...
With the arrival to Machu Picchu everything changes. The houses and shops almost invading the rails and is a sidewalk for many people.
All lives from tourism. The train station, the treks, shops, restaurants, street vendors, agency, buses to the park ... Frenzy.
Access to the archaeological park is done by bus. You can also walk ... just for some.
At the station exit, turn to the right, and after a rise of a few meters there is the ticket sales. Buy round trip. Buses run very frequently and take about 20 minutes to reach the park. It is a switchbacks uphill. Mandatory water and a protector for dust. The camera on hand to take good pictures.
The route through the park takes time, energy, water, sunscreen, a hat and lightweight. You can leave the backpack at the entrance (I recommend), there are guides to offer their services and....choose the way. I chose an unusual route. It was good because it allowed to stop and see other ways. It was bad because the climb that guides used had more shade. Surprise see old people climbing this path. Thin, uneven and slippery stairs. How they will reach the security booth up there ?! It is walking, walking ...
But, there are good reasons to reach there. The view is amazing.
In some historical places, extensive heritage, when I get there the reaction is WOW! It was in Petra, Angkor .... I am going to be unpleasant: in Machu Picchu it was not. The feeling was: "equal to photos". I was not surprised, it was not a wonder for me. At first, the place seems smaller than I thought. However, when walking, with the various slopes and buildings, I end up realizing that it is large and, I admit, superb. Here you can find detailed information about Machu Picchu. How it was built, what it meant for Incas, the best routes. Not only the park but the whole region called the Sacred Valley.
Visit this area without this information is too narrow. An alternative is to "pull" to a group with a guide. There is one everywhere. And it's not difficult because, after some time, tourists are more concerned in choosing best perspective to the photos and selfies than listening the guide information.
Another consequence of who makes the visit without the guide is to find the way back. Insistently you have to answer the question: "what is the shortest way to exit?"
A hot dog and an orange juice was lunch. Another sorojchi pills for altitude. The return to Cusco was more tiring. Many leave the park just after lunch to catch the return train. There was a long row for bus that takes tourists to train.
The railway station in Machu Picchu is not at the same place where stops the train. Above and next to clothes and craft market.
It is worth exploring on foot the place. The river, the bridges and the people are interesting reasons. In the evening are fantastic images.
The return on Vestadome already had the weight of the journey. The journey is almost at night. They give a snack and a few minutes of entertainment to enjoy the trip. Many take the opportunity to put on the sleep. Upon arrival in Cusco night is thick. The station is a bit far from the old town. The best is a taxi and walking is not easy. Tiredness is great and the altitude does not help. Tomorrow, early, return to the station and Peru Rail, again. To Puno.
Cusco - Puno
The trip was by train, Andean Explorer Peru Rail.
It's a fantastic journey, along 10 hours. For those who enjoy photography is fabulous the last wagon. Panoramic and with many options to choose the best perspective.
The trip is made every two days. You must buy the ticket in advance. For groups should be much earlier. is often sold out on both ways: Cusco - Puno and vice versa. I paid $ 268 US for a trip. Worth it. The start is at 8h am and you should be half an hour before. You have to leave the baggage that is transported in another carriage.
In fact, David was delayed, there were huge traffic in the historical part of Cusco and I got right on 8am. I had time only to smoke a half cigarette. On the train, even in the panoramic carriage, is prohibited.
The exit of Cusco is an interesting experience.
The train runs through the urban area and when is in outskirts extends the horizon. From the social view there are no major differences. Streets and dirt roads, small streams run along the road, garbage everywhere, even in the railway. However, people's reaction to the passage of the train is always with a nod, a farewell joy. The daily routine. One day in one direction, the next day, in the opposite direction. But it seems that every day is new. The farewell gesture has also, i suppose, another sign: cordiality. Surprising because they are reserved, particularly women. But they are nice people, good hosts.
Later, the train passes on small villages (you can see the route here), through markets, runs through the Andes mountains and let the view prolong by the steppe.
Rivers, lakes, waterfalls. Plantations of all colors and sparkles.
Some people were very near the railway, with a small stand that nearly collides with train, even children that are suspended in the ruins of a house, very far, and waving to tourists. I have the feeling they are also saying "how wish i will be there", have the same experience. Travel, break the solitude, discovering the world beyond the every day horizon.
The images, the sounds, the colors are multiple. The common point is the rurality. The rural world. Very simple. Low houses made by clay, with animals on land. Families cut the corn, others cattle breeding and, always, solitude. There are many children. Some in front of house's doors, others stroll with family and some walk in countryside. Sometimes, on horizon, we see a person walking quietly. Nothing else, earth and undergrowth. There are kilometers and kilometers of wide open spaces, sparsely populated and women and men working the land.
We stop at La Raya, the highest point of the trip. The altitude is 4319 meters. It's more or less halfway through the trip, 200 km to Puno. The site had a church and is the meeting point for locals trying to earn some money. Selling clothes and crafts. The clothes can even help because the place is cold and dry. The mountain tops were white dressed, snow and we were not in cold season. The sale revenues were shared. The association is a common practice in Peru. The stop in La Raya was followed by lunch. Cream of asparagus, chicken and dessert. Along the way they offer many drinks and just before the arrival in Puno thy offer a snack. All included in the ticket.
The evening was in alte plano with broad and bucolic horizons. More than an hour with the same scenery. Suddenly the train was on a city with chaotic environment. Crossings with dirt roads with many cars and bikes awaiting their turn. Squares with disorderly traffic, trucks in a field for sale brick .... In an instant the railway enters a market.
Unusual. Tents and stalls that sell everything. Automotive parts, farm implements, textiles, fruits and vegetables, car repair shops .... The train passes a span of tents. From the wagon windows we just look the people eyes to eyes. Some waving, some had a distant and indifferent look.
Train driver continuously beeps but the sale was going on. We were in Juliaca. Many travelers took pictures, some were caught off guard and seek better perspective through the windows, they had no time to move to the panoramic carriage. It's a shame company not warn passengers . Finally, Puno. It was night. Train driver was beeping again because the train was inside the city.
The luggage delivery is fast. I had a driver waiting for me.
We go through the town and was always rising, always rising.
Mirador del Titikaka Hotel is 4000 meters above sea level. A little more than 3855 meters of Puno.
Tingling was back, some arrhythmia and George, the hotel owner, said coca tea will serene. Yes, and helps the amazing view from the hotel.
In fact, despite the problem of elevation, Mirador hotel has virtues also. And many. First, the manager, Jorge, is sensational. Helps, is concerned with the well being of the guests, makes suggestions on itineraries and always seeks to alternatives with lower prices. Five stars. The hotel has internet access and a computer.
For those who are planning the trip while are in route, it is of great use. On the other hand, it is not every day that you wake up and the room has a huge picture window that lets you see Puno and Titikaka Lake.
From inside and outside the hotel, the view is as we were on a viewpoint. Stunning. In the morning, at sunset ... Many guests take advantage of this landscape, a chair, tea, cigarettes, camera, book ... and contemplating. To relax, enjoy the view. Nothing compared to noise and polution of Puno.
On the other hand, were moments to share experiences and recommendations about journey also. Some were descending, from Lima to Titicaca and Bolivia. Others, who were following in the opposite direction, were going to Machu Picchu.
The day was spent with a trip to the bus station. To buy a ticket to Copacabana in Bolivia. In the company of a Swiss couple that were doing the same trip already this morning. The taxi ordered in the hotel, took me to the port. Ticket office to Uros is at entrance and, after, we must pay a tax. All are about 15 soles.
Uros Islands are a major tourist destination in this region. Locals got some resources to survival in several way but significant part of their business depends on tourism. They are friendly, not boring, neither insist to sell something or being paid in exchange for photos or other pleasantries. Selling crafts and charge for a little boat ride.
They make a brief statement about the community's way of life when the tourists arrival. The tours provide (or induce) the opportunity to have lunch in local restaurants.
The visit is interesting. Are artificial islands, sustained by a vegetable, Totora. It was through this process they were isolated in middle of Lake Titikaka and protected themselves from invaders, including the Incas.
Altogether there are more than 50 islands and population was around 2,500 inhabitants. Former president Fujimori allowed them solar power, which gives to watch TV. "Only lack access to Internet."
You can not smoke because of the danger of fires but they cook. The houses are small, rustic and walking feels like it's on the shock absorber of a car.
In some islands there are small open spaces, with water, that it works for aquaculture.
As throughout this region of the Andes, people are small, brunette skin, women with wide skirts and colorful clothes. There are many children. They were around the tourists, they receive offers and were always available to photos. In first island, were was the arrival, some women say goodbye with a traditional sing.
On the other islands we can see the daily life of the community. Fishing, food transportation and artifacts in totora. This environment will not last a lot of decades. They told me that algae and sewage dumps into the lake and increasing population can, significantly, change the environment. If nothing will be done, the lake and these communities will suffer major changes in the coming decades.
In return, the taxi driver insisted to visit the Plaza de Armas in Puno. I could not leave without a visit. He would be hurt.
It is a typical square of this region. The central building is the cathedral, has a garden in front. One of the sides of the square is occupied by the mayor head office and, on the other hand, shops and restaurants for tourists.
In next day I was in Copacabana, Bolivia. To see Titicaca and going to La Paz and Uyuni.
Puno - Lima
Wake up and on bed see, beyond the huge window, Puno Titicaca flow into the blue is fantastic. Not fancy lift, just contemplate. So I did.
Everything was easy. Only left at 10h am and again, Jorge handled everything. Morning part was spent on the hotel terrace. Chatting with two French couples. They came from the south, Patagonia, and some were suffering from altitude sickness.
It was David who took me to Rossi agency that makes the transportation to Inca Manco Capac International Airport in Juliaca. The name is larger than the airport premises. The ticket to the airport costs 15 soles and the van was not full. The distance to Juliaca is 44 km and the journey takes about an hour. Part of this time is spent in Puno to pick up passengers at hotels.
Juliaca is a big city. With wide avenues, many buildings and streets to finish. Here you find a university, one of the largest educational facilities in the region of the Peruvian Andes. In other parts of the city poverty is more visible. According to my companion flight from Madrid to Lima, Juliaca is a city with lot of money. Until recently it was one of the cocaine drug traffic points. Today there are reports of crimes and illicit enrichment.
The airport is small, it was in works but the flight to Lima had lot of people. Not just tourists. As he waited for access to the plane, a local group played Andean music. They helped pass the time. There was nothing else to do. The flight takes just over an hour and no more than a banal journey until landing. Touches a mobile phone and a woman, on a seat behind, answer the call and start a little conversation. I must shout to her, "no puede". It was the only way to makes the woman said she was on a plane and could not talk.
Altitude less than a hundred meters. New lightly life!
At the exit of domestic flights we can not find the desk of taxi green. I had to climb, with the broken escalator and down the hall which gives access to international flights.
The trip to Ibis of Miraflores was with an untimely taxi driver. At first driving was a frenzy but in the end proved to be sleepy, his eyes close in front of red traffic lights or in queues of cars.
The evening ended with a fish ceviche and a chicha morada in Larcomar and a walk to Kennedy Park.
The plan was to visit Pachacamac but was postponed.
The priority was to see Bayern - Real Madrid. Before the game I went for a ride in Miraflores by Mirabus. It was not the desired but what was there. It not costs much - 10 soles, also.
The tours start at Kennedy Park and a list with price and routes are in a placard placed on the side. Prices are much cheaper than in other agencies.
This is also the area which is much fast food. FKC, Mc Donalds, Donuts ... share the streets with a wide variety of cafes and restaurants. Last night I spent some time in front of La Lucha and the queue was huge. Today I decide to go to Sangucheria. It was time for lunch. I tried the chicken sandwiches in the oven with a homemade chicha. It cost something like 15 soles. Payment ask for the name and give a wooden object with a number. The client sits where he wants, put the pin in wooden table and after few minutes is being served. In the evening, I returned. Again many people. This time I opted for roast beef with onion and tomato sauce. The drink was a juice of papaya, pineapple and banana. The food was tasty. The bread was crispy and abundant meat. The cost of labor should not be high (the minimum wage in Peru is US $ 267, among the lowest in Latin America) because La Lucha had many employees. All very young. The Sangucheria is one of the options of Peruvians and, apparently, also to tourists. I was fan.
The cafes were very frequented at evening because locals prefer a lighter meal. Latte and a lighter food. The sangucherias and cafes also sell pisco. The most famous is the Pisco Sour. Shops sell bottles, a souvenir for tourists. Pardon. I forgot to say. Bayern lost at home to Real for 4 to 0. The Real Madrid went to Champions League final.
Breakfast wealthy. Juice, fruit, eggs and coffee. Full of energy to visit Pachacamac.
Shortly before 10h am I was already in Kennedy Park, near the Mirabus point to buy the ticket. Two old ladies had find on floor one 32 gb memory card. I told them it was mine. They believed. Even recommended I must kept the card elsewhere because it was easy to lose. Nice ladies. The tour gave to review some of the Miraflores streets.
It is a long route. Passes through several districts. I remember Barrancos, San Isidro, Chichorrito and Panamericana.
Curious, changing neighborhood is like crossing a border. Sudden changes, traffic, homes, colors... Green replaced by brown and gray ...
Halfway through the journey, begun to emerge the hills with slums, cluttered spaces and even Pachacamac Sanctuary not resisted to the invasion. They had to make a seal to prevent the construction of new housing inside the archaeological site.
The opposite side is Pacific Ocean and the space was organized. First a bird reserve. After, long green areas. Finally, in front of Pachacamac, a park with a view to two islands.
Pachacamac mayor seeks to make marketing with the sanctuary and green spaces. The valley surrounding the archaeological site and the Pacific is crossed by the river Lurin.
Pachacamac is too long. Still ongoing archaeological work. I got the idea that there is more to discover than what is already visible.
The Inca heritage to be discovered should be immense. Taking into account the importance of the temple to Inca culture, the position he held throughout this region and ritual offerings, the archaeological value of the sanctuary should be fabulous.
Sun temple marks the horizon. It is the highest point. It was built on four platforms, a triangle form, where is a pyramid without the top.
From Sun Temple we can see multiple paths (full of students) on the inside of the archaeological site. Several guards are in top positions. They seem statues.
Another building that captures our look is Acllawasi. Towards the end of the route. It's a huge building. With many entrances and windows. It was the residence of the preferred women, elected by the Incas to serve the community.
The exit had passage by the museum. Was little. There were some pieces (particularly utensils and clothes), maps and drawings that illustrate the sanctuary history. Next door, a bathroom and a small selling point of recuerdos and drinks. Even if visitors don buy anything, the place is very comfortable because the shade. The sun was strong.
The next step was for tourists. A brief view of the Peruvian horse in the restaurant patio where we were invited to lunch. The most disorganized place where I eat on the entire trip.
On the way to Lima we saw one cemetery. Very large, carefully and with huge green spaces. Throughout Peru it is common to see cemeteries. In some cases, protected places. In other situations, without any wall or territorial limitation. In Lima there are also several cemeteries and this should be the greatest.
Return to Lima, Miraflores, was made by Love Park. Meeting place, with a view to Pacific and green space where many people sit down and talk. And kissing. The park is a tribute to love. The look does not come out of the statue of Victor Delfin, Peruvian sculptor. "El beso" is a fantastic work of art. And huge, it is 12 meters wide and three high.
The rest of the day went to see the second part of the Chelsea defeat at home against Atletico Madrid and an outlet for shopping. Those who like souvenirs, have a lot to choose. Several shops in Miraflores and some specialized craft. Who does not like "junk" at home, you can buy a coca tea package. They sold in supermarkets and are much cheaper than in the tourist stores. Besides mate, there is also candies.
A visit to the gallery building, near the Parque Kennedy, allowed me to discover Guillermo Montesinos Pastor. The exhibition was part of the Second Biennial of Photography. The works of Pastor make known the Peruvian society at the beginning of 20Th sec. in particular the bourgeoisie of Lima and Arequipa, a city in the south of the country. Pastor also captured stunning images of natural scenes. Many pictures of sky, clouds, horizons. Taken from their home. One of the daughters said it was a ritual. In the morning, very early, he caught the sunrise.
One last experience this morning was a ruckus between two drivers. One of them was conducting a combi. (van). The context was not good for combi drivers. Significant part of the passenger transport in Lima (and Peru) is made by combis. Not recommended for tourists. To be dangerous, with assaults and I saw news on television about accidents and the driver disappears. In urban areas one problems is the aggressive driving. The road traffic accidents statistics is high and the number of pedestrian accidents is very high, also. The dispute has gone up and for today was scheduled a protest at Kennedy Park. Drivers of combis are the preferred target of Ciudadanos Against Impunity in Transportation System (ISTC).
Taxi travel can also be a trouble. A square of Lima, a man sells taxi plates. Anyone can buy and work as a taxi driver. No control. Just a mere record. Recommendations are to avoid getting taxis on the street. Call by phone is safest.